December 1944.
The Allies were forcing Germany to retreat on all fronts with depleted supplies and low morale. Hitler's tenuous grasp on reality was fading. He felt a sudden attack in the Ardennes in Belgium would help break the alliance between the British, French, and Americans. So he commanded his generals to mobilize three full armies to attack the Allies through the Ardennes.
On December 16, 1944, Germany began this Ardennes Offensive, catching the Allies off guard given the pure stupidity of such an offensive. The cloudy weather assisted the Germans and prevented any air support for the Allies.
The German army advanced rapidly, pushing the prior front lines back, creating a bulge in the Allied lines, thus giving this infamous offensive its nickname.
Allied forces, primarily American, rushed in to help stem this German tide. Among the areas they went were to Bastogne, Belgium and worked together with the Belgiums. Their presence kept the city from falling but they were soon surrounded.
It was a bloody affair with the death of many Belgium citizens and nearly 77,000 Americans killed or wounded. Germany lost nearly 100,000.
Stephen Ambrose wrote extensively about the Band of Brothers in the 101st Airborne who comprised a large percentage of the American forces in Bastogne during the Battle of the Bulge.
The book is amazing, with first hand accounts of many survivors of this offensive. Veterans of this battle and Ambrose worked with Spielberg and Tom Hanks to create the epic miniseries Band of Brothers. If you have time or interest, I highly recommend the book and then seeing the miniseries. Episode 9 is all about Bastogne, Belgium.
With great anticipation, we went to Bastogne and paid our respects to the city and people who played such a crucial role in the Battle of the Bulge.
A phenomenal museum is there, with numerous items and memorabilia including tanks, jeeps, motorcycles, actual uniforms worn by Allies and Axis and three theaters depicting a forest battle, recreation of the beginning of the Battle of the Bulge, and Belgium noncombatants living in the basement of a tavern.
The museum website can be found here:
http://www.bastognewarmuseum.be/home.html
The museum also followed 4 people who experienced this Battle first hand, each with unique perspectives. As the site describes:
"As they follow the route through the museum, visitors will repeatedly encounter four characters who are introduced at the entrance to the museum. These four protagonists are present even within the recreated displays, and they allow the visitor to develop a critical view of the different aspects of the war.
Through their different first-hand accounts, they provide points of view that suggest a new approach to understanding history, not least because their view of the facts differs. Robert Keane (a corporal in the US 101st Airborne Division), Hans Wegmüller (a lieutenant in the German 26th Volksgrenadier Division), Mathilde Devillers (a young teacher from Bastogne) and Emilie Mostade (a 13-year old schoolchild) each explain in their own way what the terrible years of the war were like for them."
Emilie still can be spotted in Bastogne as he remains active in the community there. It was incredible to think about all he lived through and how the museum continues to ensure nobody forgets this epic and terrible battle.
Joey and Sammy couldn't appreciate the full history (despite of or because of how much I talked about it), but they were amazed by Sherman tank at the entrance.
They were even more amazed by the Sherman tank with a giant hole blown into it and the shrapnel all around the hole.
They loved the Harley Davidson motorcycle as well.
And the uniforms and weapons.
Sammy started to fade, so Alisa took him and Lanna outside. Joey and I stayed to explore some more.
Joey loved the story about how, on December 22, 1944, General McAuliffe received a demand to surrender, which he famously replied, "NUTS!" A great sign commemorated this reply:
The detailed story on how NUTS! came to be can be found here:
http://www.army.mil/article/92856
Joey spent the rest of the afternoon running around yelling "Nuts!"
This museum was rich in personal items and continued testaments to the violence and perseverance of the people and soldiers who fought.
Joey and I explored for a while longer before we left to meet Alisa.
We walked out to the impressive Mardasson Memorial which has been there since 1950.
Sammy and Lanna continued to run around the base while Joey and I climbed to the top of this 5 pointed star and looked out each point. There was a plaque at each point indicating what the geography was during the Battle of the Bulge.
It was hard to imagine the chaos and damage, seeing how calm and pastoral Bastogne is today.
I walked another slow circle around the memorial in the wan October sun thinking about all I had seen in the museum.
Before walking away, I said a silent thank you to all the people who fought for or fought with the Allies for their sacrifice and dedication.
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