Toledo

On September 11, we drove down to Toledo, a small hilltop city rich in history and noted for its multiculturalism with influences from Christian, Muslim, and Jewish faiths.  It had been the center of government for the ancient Romans, Visigoths, Muslims, and the Spanish kings.  

Although tiny, it has remained an iconic and enduring town.  It is associated with fine steel and artisanal metal work called damascening.  Fitting for a city that is both strong and beautiful.

The thought of enduring through conflict was much on our minds on September 11 as we experienced this amazing city.

We started off with some lunch at the top of the eastern escarpments, looking down at the Rio Tajo below.  They had some modern updates with small playgrounds that the boys enjoyed near the spires of the Alcazar.

Despite being so small, it was easy to get lost.  The streets were narrow with the buildings high enough to limit visibility.  The city planning was intentional to help protect the citizens from the brutal summer heat and the sharp winds that rise off the La Mancha plains.

I think that's why they had these metal maps implanted in the ground throughout Toledo:

These were impressive but useless to us.  Fortunately we had a map that we could carry with us that prevented us from becoming hopelessly lost.

From the Alcazar we went to Catedral Primada Santa Maria de Toledo.  That was a beautiful place and a dedicated post will follow.

Another church, Santo Tome, was seen after that which paled in comparison to the Cathedral.  It was much akin to taking an Aston Martin for a test drive then checking out a Nissan Altima.  The second church did have a beautiful El Greco painting titled The Burial of Count Orgaz.  (A great article on that painting can be found here):  http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424127887323415304578370621638609246

After the cathedral we meandered down the winding streets to the Sephardic Museum.  This was equally impressive with a vaulted carved wooden ceiling and carved plaster walls.

The walk down the hillside brought us to another beautiful building.  This was the monastery San Juan de los Reyes.  Sammy and I enjoyed looking up the intricately carved towers.

Having been fully sated on religious dwellings and religious history, we then sat down for some afternoon tapas near the Puerto del Cambron.

While we enjoyed some tiny tuna filled empanadillas an old car navigated its way through followed by some buses (which we were impressed any buses would be able to navigate any of the Toledo streets) for a wedding! This was approximately the 5th wedding group we'd seen since our arrival to Spain.

After this restorative break, we followed the twisting road down to Puente de San Martin, one of the four bridges in Toledo.

It was a spectacular view and we took full advantage of its vistas.

This is looking back at Toledo (southeasterly) from the bridge.  Yucca grew spectacularly well on the hillside and the tall stalks there are from the yucca plants.

Before we left, they had installed a zip line across the river.  They asked me if I wanted to fly.  I did.  It was amazing.  Unfortunately I couldn't take any pictures while cruising over the Rio Tajo but it was the time of day just before sunset when the colors are mellowed, giving the sensation of contentment and fulfillment.

We trekked back to the garage afterwards, commiserating with an SUV that had made a poor choice for a left turn and was nearly wedged into one of the tiny streets.  They may still be there for all we know.

It was an exhausting day traveling with three young kids in late summer heat and being on your feet all day.  It was also exhilarating to have walked the same streets of Roman centurions, Visigoths, El Greco, and Spanish kings.

History is a powerful force.  Great things have happened.  Terrible things have occurred.  Yet we are here today to remember the past as accurately as possible, learn from it, be inspired by it, and join in the millions of others we live with to craft history moving forward to create our own legacy.